Cape Palliser, New Zealand

Sun, sea lions, a lighthouse, and eroded earth pillars that Peter Jackson used as background in the Lord of the Rings - that sums up my day trip to Cape Palliser.

Here's a view looking back on the bay we traveled along for a little bit:

Here's the Cape Palliser lighthouse and its 250+ stairs:

A close up of the lighthouse:

We made a detour to the Putangirua Pinnacles.  The return trip to the viewing point was 1 1/2 hours - just long enough to shake the legs out before getting in the car for another two hours. :)

If you really squint, you can see a small red dot at the bottom of this picture, in the middle:

That's my other half - Will.  He's there to give you an idea of how tall the pillars are.

Just before heading back to Masterton, we had a look for the colony of sea lions.  We saw dozens of them laying in the sun.  Here's one lounging in the water:

Cape Palliser was the last day trip in the Wairarapa before heading back to Dunedin.

It was relaxing and rejuvenating to be away.  Now, I'm ready to finish up my PhD - just a few months until I submit my thesis for examination!

Pukaha Mt. Bruce Wildlife Centre

I was in need of rest and relaxation after the three-day trek around the Tararuas.  So, I lounged around Masterton for a day and then took a road trip to Pukaha Mt. Bruce Wildlife Centre.

All the wildlife were out and about on such a sunny day!

Highlights include:

• Watching the takahē and kākā feedings
• Seeing tuatara chillaxing (these guys can live to be over 100 years old!)
• Observing a rare white kiwi chase her brown kiwi mate (this was quite amusing because she seemed to be making a game of running after him until he hid behind something and then she hid behind something until he emerged...as soon as she noticed him she'd pop out and start chasing him again)
• Feeding ginormous eels (watch me feeding the eels in the video below - I was a smidge worried that one would slip into the waders I was wearing!)

I highly encourage visitors to make a day out of their trip to Mt. Bruce - it can really help stretch the $20 entry fee.  There are feedings and talks spread throughout the day, so there's plenty to see and do between the center's opening and closing times.

We arrived around 10am and had coffee at the cafe.  This was great because we could watch takahē strut around as we sipped long blacks on the patio:

Next, we walked around the educational indoor exhibit and made our way outdoors to the walk around the aviaries.

I  met this kokako and thought it was the cutest bird ever (and so friendly!):

After a bit, we ate a picnic lunch that we had brought along and then continued walking around until it was time for the eel feedings.  Feeding the eels was a great experience because I could see them up close.  I was a little apprehensive that so many eels were swimming between my legs and leaping at the spoon of food, but it was still a pretty darn cool opportunity.  So, if you're at least 15 years of age then I highly recommend putting a hand up to volunteer.

There's a two-hour walk around the native bush that I did to stretch the legs a wee bit and then it was time for the kākā feeding:

Next post will be about a day trip to Cape Palliser.  Stay tuned!

Tararua Northern Crossing

Recently, I took a trip to the north island to visit future in-laws and explore all that the Wairarapa has to offer.  You know what it has to offer? Very (very!) high tramping routes with steep drop offs on both sides.  These tracks provide several perfect opportunities to tumble thousands of feet to one's death with one wrong move.

Yay.

The Tararua Northern Crossing was not my choosing.  Nonetheless, I was looking forward to it because my fiance had talked it up - he spent time in the Tararua mountains when he was younger and thought it would be fun to show off his old stomping grounds.

On day one of three we made our way to Tarn Ridge Hut.  Based on our fitness levels we expect to be there in less than eight hours.

It took 12 hours of huffing, puffing, photo stops, snack stops, whining, and some crying to get there.

Like many tracks, trails, and routes that I've hiked in NZ, this trip started off with walking through some farm land and up a mossy mountain.

After about four hours we had a scenic lunch stop.

Then, up and away we went.

Mitre Peak - 1571 meters

Yes, we felt on top of the world... but, I was also feeling lightheaded, wobbly, and anxious.  The heights started getting to me.  I wasn't mentally prepared for the route we took.  I wasn't expecting an easy walk in the park, but I had no expectations that this trip required a head for heights!

I struggled when we had to hike upwards.  I got myself through dodgy sections by taking baby steps and using two trekking poles to feel steady.  On the steep downwards sections I slid on my rump.

Somehow, I bum slid down this little gem right here:

Onwards, onwards, onwards.  Right across the top!

In between whimpers, I managed to put my distress aside and look around me.  Even though I was a bit freaked out, I still appreciated the natural beauty of being on top of mountains.

Just before sunset we reached the hut.  It was freezing and so we got right to work on heating up water for sugary hot drinks and preparing dinner.  Since we had the whole hut (which sleeps 16 people) to ourselves, we turned up the music on the iPod.  Being busy and having a tunes helped me relax after a stressful day.

The next day we left the comfort of Tarn Ridge Hut and started making our way to Te Matawai Hut.  This time, I was fully warned that there was a dodgy section (the Waiohine Pinnacles - 1400 meters) that would be worse than the previous day.  Then, I was given the option to take an easier route: get off the ridge line and head down to the river.

Ha! I am not one to back down from a challenge! I would be just as nervous crossing the Pinnacles as I was the day before, but I was determined to keep going on our planned route.  (Besides, years ago a small group of men managed to get over the Pinnacles at nighttime, holding flashlights, without a scratch.  Surely I could do it in daylight with both of my hands free!)

I made it over the Pinnacles without too much of a hitch.  Our lunch break was at Arete Hut.

Unfortunately, I don't have pictures from the rest of the trip. Bummer! Basically, we had an uneventful (but HOT) walk to the hut followed by an uneventful night in the hut.

Our last day was my favorite.  We tramped to South Ohau Hut and had a quick rest stop before making our way out via the Ohau River.  And, when I say, "via the river" I mean that we were actually in the river for a few hours, sometimes wading in water up to our butt!

Truth be told?  The water felt amazing.  My feet were so tender and the cool water was a relief!  I actually walked in the water when I didn't need to, just because it felt so good.

So, now I've done the Northern Crossing.  I totally underestimated what the Tararuas could throw at me, but I'm glad I was able to roam around my fiance's "backyard".  I honestly couldn't imagine the pre-teen version of himself doing the same hike - I'm quite impressed!  With that said, he didn't think the hike was too difficult and didn't quite grasp what I was on about ("Heights? What Heights?").

Well, that just means I'll have to give him a taste of his own medicine.

This summer, when we visit upstate New York, I've decided that we're going hiking in the Adirondacks...  He's never had to deal with rattlesnakes and bears before!